111 iconic items that defined the ultimate century of favor

What do a Chanel dress, a Wonderbra, and Nike Air Force 1s have in common?
The punch line to this setup is what visitors to New York’s Museum of Modern Art will puzzle out as they walk through its first new fashion exhibition in more than 70 years.

Items: Is Fashion Modern?, which opens Oct. 1 and runs via Jan. 28, pulls collectively 111 distinct clothes, add-ons, and other wearables—not within the technological sense

It’s a sprawling, diffuse collection, taking over the museum’s whole sixth ground. On display are Thirties Chinese cheongsams, an example of the Issey Miyake turtlenecks preferred with the aid of Apple founder Steve Jobs, and a 2017 Colin Kaepernick soccer jersey. Along with excessive-style rarities, which include a famed Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking in shape from 1966, are comparably mundane items which are critical for being ubiquitous cultural touchstones, which include Levi’s 501s and a Champion hoodie.

The curators describe the objects inside the exhibit as stereotypes: things which set the template for designs that observed, or that constitute a huge concept, which includes “the little black dress” or “the suit.” They wish that grouping all these pieces inside the museum context, however commonplace or uncommon they will be, will make viewers bear in mind them all as intentionally designed items, related through style’s sprawling surroundings, and regularly attaining beyond it to intersect with politics, social problems, or generation.

“We without a doubt wanted the viewer to are available in and simply to begin with being overwhelmed with the aid of the range of objects,” says Stephanie Kramer, a research assistant at MoMA and the fashion professional on the curatorial group in the back of the showcase. “So have something that becomes designed by using Gabrielle Chanel juxtaposed with an MTV fanny percent. Right off the bat, we need somebody to scratch their head about, ‘Whoa, all of these items are combined in one room, underneath one big umbrella of favor.’”
The call, Is Fashion Modern?, riffs at the identity of the last show about fashion on the MoMA, Are Clothes Modern? held in 1944

Here is the complete, huge-ranging listing of 111 gadgets included inside the new show off:

• 501 Jeans (Levi’s). 1947 instance from the employer archive

• A-POC Queen Textile (Issey Miyake). Example from MoMA’s series

• Adidas Superstars. 1983 pair from the corporation archive

• Air Force 1s (Nike). Three 1980s pairs, from the Nike agency archive and from a private lender

• Aran sweater. 1942 instance from the National Museum of Ireland. Prototype fee with the aid of Laduma Ngxokolo

• Aviator sunglasses. 1970s pair from the business enterprise archive

• Backpack. A 1980s Prada Nylon Backpack from the corporation archive

• Balaclava. Purchase

• Ballet flats. Examples via Repetto (Bata Shoe Museum, 2010), Valentina (Museum of the City of New York, Nineteen Forties), Claire McCardell (The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Forties)

• Bandanna. Six midcentury examples from the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

• Baseball cap. Two examples from New Era, c. 1950 and 1996

• Beret. From Boinas Elósegui, Laulhère

• Biker jacket. Nineteen Fifties Schott One-Star Perfecto from the corporation archive. Prototype fee via Asher Levine

• Bikini. 1970s example from the Blue Man archive

• Birkin bag. Jane Birkin’s Hermès lent by Catherine Benier. Prototype by using Mary Ping, lent by means of Collection Galéries Lafayette

• Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body get dressed (Comme des garçons). One instance from the S/S 1997 series. Prototype on loan from Brandon Wen and Laura Zwanziger

• Breton blouse. 1960s example from Percival’s employer archive. Prototype commission by Unmade

• Briefs (Y-Front). Vintage items with the aid of Calvin Klein and Jockey

• Bucket hat. Items by way of Kangol, ATA

• Burkini. Example by Ahiida

• Caftan. Two 1970s exemplars via Thea Porter, on mortgage from non-public collectors

• Capri pants. Two 1940s pairs with the aid of Sonja de Lennart

• Cartier Love bracelet. Lent by means of Cartier Collection. Prototype commission by way of Verbal and Yoon

• Chanel №5. 1924 Chanel №5 bottle

• Cheongsam. Two Nineteen Thirties examples from the Museum of Chinese in America

• Chino. 1990s Levi’s Dockers. Prototype fee by using Sartists

• Converse All Stars. C. 1950 pair from the Converse archive

• Clogs. Nineteen Seventies pair from OlofDaughters archive, Sweden

• Coppola. Contemporary item from La Coppola Storta, Italy

• Dashiki. Examples from New Breed (c. 1968), Lagos Balogun Market (modern-day)

• A diamond engagement ring. Contemporary example with the aid of Tiffany & Co. Prototype fee with the aid of Cohen van Balen

• Diamond stud. Contemporary example with the aid of Jacob & Company

• Door-knocker jewelry. Purchase

• Down jacket. Items by means of Moncler, Norma Kamali

• Dr. Martens. The nineteen seventies pair from the Victoria & Albert Museum

• Dutch wax. Two current ensembles designed for Vlisco via Loza Maléombho and Stylista

• Espadrilles. 1977 Yves Saint Laurent x Castañer from the Victoria & Albert Museum, London

• Fanny percent. 1996 Vivienne Westwood x Louis Vuitton, Nineties Spark Pretty MTV

• Fitbit. Contemporary Fitbit Flex. Prototype mortgage by way of Rogers Research Lab, Northwestern University

• Fleece. Eighties fleece from Patagonia’s archive

• Flip-flops. Example from Havaianas

• Fur coat. A mortgage from PETA’s documents

• Gore-Tex jacket. Marmot, Early Winters

• Graphic T-blouse. A variety of graphic T-shirts. Prototype fee by using Modern Meadow

• Guayabera. Contemporary example from Ramón Puig. Prototype commission via Ryohei Kawanishi

• Harem pants. 1933–35 instance via Paul Poiret from the Kobe Fashion Museum. Prototype fee by way of Miguel Mesa Posada

• Headphone. 1979 Sony Walkman from MoMA’s series

• Headwrap. Three examples — gele, doek, turban

• Hijab. Items from Haute Hijab, Uniqlo x Hana Tajima, Capsters, Al-Amira fashion example

• Hoodie. Nineteen Seventies instance from Champion’s archive

• Jumpsuit. C. 1974 Stephen Burrows instance from The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. Prototype commission by using Richard Malone

• Keffiyeh. Purchase from Hirbawi Factory. Prototype loan with the aid of Salim al-Kadi

• Kente material. Late 1960s instance by means of Julie “Chez Julie” Norteye lent via the Harn Museum of Art. Prototype fee via Bonwire master weaver, Ghana

• Kilt. An appearance from the A/W 1994 Anglomania series particularly remade by using Vivienne Westwood

• Kippah. A range of purchased and borrowed kippot

• Lapel Pin. AIDS ribbon, remembrance poppy, peace sign, American flag


• Little Black Dress. Stereotypes with the aid of Chanel (c. 1926, FIDM), Christian Dior (c.1950, Indianapolis Museum of Art), Givenchy (1968, The Museum at FIT), Thierry Mugler (1981, Indianapolis Museum of Art), Rick Owens (2014, dressmaker’s archive), Nervous System (2013, MoMA collection), Arnold Scaasi (c.1966, The Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, Drexel University), Wolford (the nineties, buy), Versace (1994, Phoenix Art Museum), and a Utility Dress (Nineteen Forties, Victoria & Albert Museum). Prototype fee by using Pia Interlandi

 

• Le Smoking. Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, lent by Maison Anouschka, Paris

• Leather pants. 1989 Mr. Leather pair from Guy 1st Earl Baldwin of Bewdley’s personal archive

• Leotard. 1976 example via Bonnie August x Danskin, from The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute

• Loafer. Nineteen Seventies pair by way of Bass, from the Wilton Home and Farm Museum, Maine

• Manicure. Nail artwork sets by Chieko Nakayama (lent by The Kyoto Costume Institute) and Bernadette Thompson (purchase)

• Mao jacket. The seventies instance from the Powerhouse Museum, Sydney. Prototype fee with the aid of Francesco Risso of Marni

• Miniskirt. Sixties Dispo instance lent through the Victoria & Albert Museum

• Monogram. Eighties Dapper Dan Alpo Coat, from Dapper Dan’s archive

• Moon boot. 1970s example from Tecnica’s archive. Prototype fee through Liz Ciokajlo with Maurizio Montalti

• Oxford fabric button-down. 1950s example from Brooks Brothers. Prototype mortgage by MagnaReady

• Panama hat. Contemporary instance by using Domingo Carranza

• Pearl necklace. Choker lent via Mikimoto

• Pencil skirt. Example by Janie Bryant for Mad Men. Prototype fee by means of I Am Chen

• Plaid flannel shirt. 1980s instance with the aid of Woolrich, from the corporation’s archive

• Platforms. Items by means of Biba (1973, Victoria & Albert Museum), Buckler & Price (1993, Victoria & Albert Museum), Buffalo (1997, Bata Shoe Museum), Delman (the nineteen forties, buy), Tatehana (2010, Museum at FIT), Vivienne Westwood (1987, Museum at FIT), Alexander McQueen (2010, personal archive), unknown designers from the Thirties, 40s, and 60s (Bata Shoe Museum and Museum of the City of New York), and 2 Elton John’s level structures (Bata Shoe Museum, 1974)

• Polo shirt. Examples by way of Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Fred Perry, from the companies’ files

• Premaman. Fifties stereotype (buy). Prototype commission by means of Wei Hung Chen

• Red lipstick. 1952 Revlon Fire and Ice, buy

• Rolex watch. 1970s Rolex Datejust, personal lender

• Safari fit. Seventies Yves Saint Laurent his/hers, from personal lender and The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute

• Safety pin. 1977/78 McLaren/Westwood/Reid “God Save the Queen” blouse from non-public lender

• Sari. Vintage baranasi, present day khadi via Rta Kapur Chishti, cutting-edge Raw Mango, and vintage “grandmother” sari, lent by using Malika Kashyap [FM4]

• Seven Easy Pieces. Seven pieces c. The 1980s from the Donna Karan archive

• Salwar kameez. Contemporary high school uniform from Pakistan, purchase

• Shawl. Three modern examples from Kashmir Loom, India

• Shift get dressed. Items with the aid of Anne Klein (c. 1960, purchase), Helmut Lang (1994, MAK Vienna), Marimekko (1966, Design Museum Finland), Lilly Pulitzer (the 1960s, buy), Paco Rabanne (1968, Kobe Fashion Museum), Phelan (2016, from the fashion designer). Prototype commission with the aid of Bolt Threads + Stella McCartney

• Shirt dress. C. 1974 stereotype by way of Halston, lent by way of The Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, Drexel University

• Silk Scarf. C. 1960 stereotype by means of Hermès, lent with the aid of Catherine Benier

• Slip get dressed. Examples by way of Calvin Klein. Prototype commission by way of XO

• Snugli. A 1971 Snugli baby carrier from Ann and Mike Moore

• Space Age Collection (Pierre Cardin). Two 1967 examples from the Victoria & Albert Museum. Prototype fee by using Pyer Moss

• Spanx. Purchase

• Speedo. Team USA 1968 men’s suit (Powerhouse Museum, Sydney) and Team Canada 1976 ladies’ match (purchase)

• Sports jersey. Colin Kaepernick’s, Pelé’s, Lisa Leslie’s

• Stilettos. Examples via Roger Vivier (Bata Shoe Museum, 1954), Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin (cutting-edge examples from business enterprise data)

• Suit. Items from the records of Anderson & Sheppard (2017), Thom Browne (2017), Yohji Yamamoto (2004), Carlo Brandelli (2001–08), Armani (men’s and ladies’s suits from the Eighties), and then suits through Bill Blass (1970, lent via Philadelphia Museum of Art), Burton’s (1945–54, lent by Leeds City Museum), and a zoot healthy (1940–42, lent by Los Angeles County Museum of Art)

• Sunscreen. Bain de soleil/Coppertone, buy

• Surgical mask. Contemporary samples bought in Tokyo. Prototype loan via Zhijun Wang

• Swatch. Examples from the Swatch archive

 

• Tabi boot. Five objects (dating 1989–2008) from Maison Martin Margiela and a private lender

 

• Tattoo. A selection of world tattoo designs, projected

 

• Tevas. C. 1998 instance from the organization’s archive

 

• Tie. Items lent by Marinella (modern), Van Heusen and Arrow (bought, midcentury)

 

• Tights/pantyhose. C. 1959 Glen Raven stereotypes. Prototype commissions by Somarta and Lucy Jones

 

• Track match. A unique remake of Bruce Lee’s 1971–seventy-two Longstreet tracksuit

 

• Trench coat. Contemporary Burberry Westminster Heritage Trench. Prototype mortgage by means of Anne van Galen

• Turtleneck. 1988 instance by means of Issey Miyake

• Unisex Project (Rudy Gernreich). Two 1970 bodysuits from FIDM and The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute


• White T-shirt. Contemporary Hanes instance

• Wonderbra. An early Nineties instance, buy

• Wrap get dressed (Diane von Furstenberg). 1974 stereotype from the fashion designer’s archive

• Y-three (Yohji Yamamoto). Examples from the 2001 and 2003 collections, lent by means of The Kyoto Costume Institute

• Yoga pants. 1998 Lululemon “Boogie” pant

• YSL Touche Éclat. Purchase

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